The market town of Karima is the largest town between Atbara and Dongola, but sandwiched between two deserts it seems like a log way fro anywhere, with its low buildings and wide dusty lanes. Karima is the place to base yourself to explore the remains of the Napatan kingdom of Kush. On the edge of town is the incomparable Jebel Barkal, a landmark that dominates the area, with its ruined temples and perfectly persevered pyramids. Close by are the royal cemeteries of Nuri and El Kurru. Remains of a more recent nature are the boats of the Middle Nile steamer fleet, hauled up to the riverbank to die.

Getting there and away:

• From Omdurman’s Souk El-Shabi, luxury coaches run daily to Meroe or Nuri, stopping at Karima (6Hrs, SDG25). If there are only a couple of passengers traveling to Karima, the driver may skip the stop all together, but, rather charmingly, an arrival in Meroe/Nuri will fetch and pay for a microbus to Karima, just 10 minutes away. By all accounts this is standard practice.
• Heading to Attbara the best option is to take a minibus (SDG25), although you might have to wait a few hours for it to collect enough passengers to go. Alternatively, there is a twice -weekly direct mini coach to Port Sudan via Atbara on Saturday and Wednesday (10Hrs, SDG80).
• For Dongola, buses run along the road in about 2 1/2 hours (SDG25). Recently sealed, this road doesn’t follow the Nile but rather cuts through the desert.
• All transport goes from Souk Karima, from where you can also find local transport including minibuses and shared taxis for Meroe and Nuri. Taxis in Karima are green.
• Traveling to Karima from Khartoum, you will pass y Meroe, where Sudan’s most important and ambitious power generating project is located, the Meroe Dam. Although travel permits are not required, security is tight and you will probable have your passport throughly check at the check points.

Where to Stay & Eat:

• Al Nasser Hotel: Hosbitalia Street, M: 0915024195 Plenty of space & room for parking around the courtyard, plus a small shop at the front selling bread & vegetables, dishing out fun & other staples throughout the day. Toilets are basic but the showers look out to Jebel Barkal. A night on a bed outside costs SDG20.
• El Shamalia Hotel: Hosbitalia Steet, It has beds in the courtyard & a few side rooms. A dormitory bed costs SDG5.
• Nubian Rest House: 10 rooms Jebel Barkal, N: 0183487961, E: info@italtoursudan.com At the top end of the scale is this beautiful Italian-run place, possibly Sudan’s only boutique hotel. Located 5 mins from Jebel Barkal & opposite it’s north face, the large compound has rooms around a garden built in traditional Nubian style. All are immaculately presented & the fluffy towels & hot water in the en-suite rooms feel like genuine luxury. Breakfast & dinner are included with lunch available on request, all are served in a high doomed dining room. Rooms are best booked in advanced. SDG550/700.