El Obeid is a good place to stop if you are planning on travelling to the Nuba Mountains, or are planning to head further west, but it also has a couple of good attractions itself – a small museum, and the slightly incongruous Roman Catholic Cathedral. The centre of town is dominated by a spiralling souk. Arabic Gum is a major regional export, and the huge Headquarters of the Arabic Gum Company sit next to Souk El-Shabi; raw gum is sold just outside.

A travel permit is required to visit EL Obeid, and the security police still insist that you register with them as soon as you arrive in town. Make sure the name of your chosen hotel is clearly stated on the registration form that you are given, or else the hotel wont let you check in. The unmarked offices opposite the Cathederal.

Getting there & away:

By Air: The airport is 4KM from the center of twon and is clearly visable from the main highway to Khartoum. Sudan Airways irratic schedule usually plan 2 flights a week, to and from the capital. This service carries onto Nyala. But a travel permit is required to travel to Darfur.

By Road: A good tarmac road links El Obeid to Khartoum. El Obeid’s main bus station is the Souk El-Shabi just north of the town center, which serves destinations to the east (primarily Kosti and Khartoum). Several coaches leave throughout the day heading to Khartoum (8 Hrs, SDG40). Buses stop half way for refreshment at the closest thing Sudan has to a western style motorway service, with decent food and gleaming toilets. (If you have your own vehicle and you want to enjoy these delights, look for the Gadrah Petrol station at the Kosti turn off, on the main road. The service station is plastered with Cocoa-Cola adverts). To Kosti, it is a 4 hour trip wither by coach (SDG30) or fill-and-go minbus (SDG20). The road to the Nuba Mountains has recently be sealed. Minibuses run regularly to Dilling (2 hours SDG10) along with the shared taxis leaving from El Obeid Salheen Bus Station.

By Train: Hypothetically speaking, the Nyala train service is still running. nonetheless passangers are only allowed to ride from Ar-Rahad close to El Obeid, and not from Khartoum. The train is excessivly slow taking up to four days to make it to Nyala, but given the sitauation in Darfur, the authroities will not issue a travel permit anyway.

Where to Stay & Eat: Unfortunately the famous John Hotel has long since closed. However its bright pink centrally located building makes a good landmark when navigating around town. These are the avalible options:

• El Madina Hotel: On the opposite side of the central souk. The area is crowded and noisy. El Madina is a good choise. The shared bathrooms and comunal showers are clean. Likewise, rooms are clean and decent. With rooms with AC and en-suite
• Ryad Holiday: M 0912303808. Probably the best option in El Obeid. Staff are helpful and discounts of around 20% in the hot season. Upgrade to a en-suite for 50SDG.
• Kordofan Hotel: T 06118233020. A value added mid range hotel. The owners have a peculiar predilection for the colour blue. Everything is blue, from the hotel walls to the pillows and the bed sheets. There is a designated car park right in from of the hotel which can come in handy if you are travelling with your own vehicle. The hotel is located about 15 mins walk from the town center. All rooms have en-suite bathrooms, AC, and small fridge.
• Shahd International Hotel: T 0157864775.