The city of Atbara sits were the Nile receives its last tributary, the Atbara River. The Atbara rises in the Ethiopian Highlands and has ver seasonal flow, swelling its banks from June to September but receding to pool and streams in the winter and spring. Atbara is known as the home of Sudan’s railway and is popularly known as “the city of iron and fire”.

Getting there and away:

• Given Atbara’s pre-eminence as a railway town it would ideally be preferable to take the train for onward travel, although in proactive this is no longer passive: the massive incense in sealed roads in this part of Sudan has made coach and minibus travel both faster and more comfortable for all eourws hearelding the end of the passenger train service.
• Atbara’s bus station is close to the center and has a variety of coaches and minibuses serving several destinations. For Khartoum many coaches leave in the morning (4 Hrs, SDG25). The new road to Port Sudan has made it easily accessible – coaches leave early in the morning and take eight hours (SDG54). To head south the SHendi (or the pyramids at Meroe), take a microbus or a shared taxi from a stand at the eastern side of the market or take a bus to Khartoum and get off at the junction (although you’ll have tp pay full fare). The journey takes 2 1/2 hours and costs SDG10.
• To Karima a mini coaches cost SDG25 and take three hours; they cross the Bayuda Desert using a recently sealed road. To cross the Nile, use the new bridge near Um El-Toyor. If you are going all the way to Wadi Halfa, the bus takes eight hours (70SDG). Getting around Atbara can easily managed on foot, but there are also plenty of rickshaws and taxis.

Where to Stay & Eat:

• Al Asifa Hotel: Opposite railway tracks. T: 0120766760. Definitely the best hotel in town. Overlooking the railways, rooms are spacious & welcoming with 2 beds, AC, large fridge & en suite. Rooms SDG130 with breakfast & free Wifi
• Al Bashra: T: 0114579099. Small Hotel with clean AC rooms. Centerally located. A single room is SDG75.
• Nahar Hotel: A good Lokanda, laid out in the typical rooms around an open courtyard’s style. There always seems to be someone sweeping up & keeping the place clean. There is also an attached laundry & kitchen. Small rooms are SDG40. Outside beds SDG10.
• Nile Hotel: North of the main bus station. Guests are immediately made to feel welcome by well-tended gardens a theme carried on o the green & flowering courtyard at the rear. The Coptic owner lives in the hotel, giving it a warm personal atmosphere. Rooms have shared bathrooms. Rooms SDG60.
• Sakhr Hotel: M: 0905354444. Slightly better than the standard Lokanda, with a strategic location right in the middle of the souk. All rooms come with a fan & have relatively clean shaved bathrooms. Rooms SDG60.
• University Guest House: M: 0912667360. Father out in the old British quarter, & indeed has an air of antiquity about it. A fair walk from town. There are large shady gardens in which you can relax before supper. All rooms are well sized & en suite, with the welcome addition of AC & a fridge.

• The best eating spots are on the Main Street running through the southern edge of the market – cafeteria-style establishments offer the usual selection of kebabs and stews. Top of the list is Al Made Cafeteria with an air-conditioned dining area on the second floor. With advanced warning it’s also possible to eat in the Nile Hotel.