This dusty town is Sudan’s major border post with Chad, and the heart of the Masalit homeland. At the centre of El Geneina is the white palace of the hereditary Masalit Sultan, who has prestige but no political power. On the edge of Sahel, the town is well wooded and watered, with many orchards. The town’s souk has always been lively, prospering from the cross-border trade. It has also seen its share of political trouble, with nomad-farmer conflicts and the over-spill of fighting from Chad. More recently, El Geneina has become a major centre for both Masalit IDPs and Chadian refugees. Relief workers are town’s only other visitors.